Frequently Asked Questions
&
Common Misconceptions
Here are some of the most frequently asked questions and common misconceptions about trees that we receive.
1. What types of trees are best suited for the Okanagan's climate?
The Okanagan region has a semi-arid climate characterized by hot summers, mild winters, and low to moderate rainfall. Trees that thrive in this environment are typically drought-tolerant, heat-resistant, and able to grow in well-draining soils. The soils in the lower valleys are alluvial and have a high clay alkaline content.
It's important to consider the specific location, intended use (such as shade, aesthetics, or fruit production), sunlight and water availability. Proper care and irrigation are essential for the success of trees in this challenging climate. Given the complexity of each location, we recommend that you request our services so we can help you better choose the right tree for your specific situation. We always aim to provide the best species selection that will minimize maintenance costs.
2. When is the optimal time to plant trees in the Okanagan?
The optimal time to plant trees in the Okanagan is during the spring or fall, as these seasons offer the best conditions for root establishment and growth. Here's a breakdown:
Spring (April to early June)
Pros: The soil is warming, and there’s ample moisture from snowmelt and spring rains, encouraging root development before the summer heat.
Considerations: Ensure consistent watering as summer approaches. Keep an eye on the weather and plant accordingly.
Fall (September to early November)
Pros: Cooler temperatures reduce stress on the tree, and the soil remains warm enough for root growth before winter. Fall planting allows trees to establish roots over winter, preparing them for growth in the spring.
Considerations: Plant early enough to allow roots to establish before the first hard frost.
By planting in spring or fall, you give your trees the best chance to adapt to their new environment and thrive in the Okanagan’s challenging climate.
3. How should I care for newly planted trees in this region?
Caring for newly planted trees in the Okanagan requires attention to their unique needs in a semi-arid climate. Assuming the tree was properly planted at the correct depth and mulched to retain moisture. Here’s a step-by-step guide:
Watering
Frequency: Water deeply and slowly 2–3 times per week during the first growing season.
Amount: Use 10–15 gallons of water per inch of trunk diameter.
Timing: Early morning or late evening is ideal to minimize evaporation.
Adjustment: Reduce frequency in the rainy season and as the tree establishes.
Staking
When Needed: Stake only if the tree is in a windy area or has a weak root ball.
Removal: Remove stakes after one growing season to avoid restricting growth.
Soil Care
It's generally best to work with the soil that is already on site. However, this can sometimes be challenging or impossible if construction fill has been used instead of actual soil. If you suspect that your property has poor soil quality, please request a consultation. I can visit your site to assess the situation and discuss a plan to address the issue. It's advisable not to plant trees in construction fill unless you're prepared to replace them in a few years or significantly increase your maintenance efforts.
If working with a new planting site, use nutrient-rich, well-draining soil to support healthy root development.
Pruning
Timing: Prune only to remove dead, damaged, or diseased branches. Avoid heavy pruning in the first year.
Purpose: Encourages healthy structure and airflow without stressing the tree.
Protection
From Heat: Consider using tree guards or shade cloth for young trees exposed to extreme sun.
From Wildlife: Install fencing or tree wraps to prevent damage from deer, rabbits, and other animals. This is a must in deer-prone areas as they will kill your trees more quickly than any other pest.
Fertilization
If your new tree is mulched correctly and the soil has sufficient nutrients, you won't need to use fertilizer. High-nitrogen fertilizers have been known to increase the risk of pests and diseases, as they cause trees to focus more on growth and less on defence. Additionally, Insects are attracted to nitrogen, which acts like a dinner bell for them!
In most cases, avoid fertilizing in the first year unless the soil is severely nutrient-deficient, as it can stress the tree.
Monitoring
Regularly check for signs of stress such as wilting, yellowing leaves, or pests, and address any issues promptly. If you encounter a problem you cannot identify, please contact us, and we will come by to diagnose it.
With consistent care, newly planted trees can establish strong roots and adapt to the Okanagan’s challenging climate, ensuring long-term health and growth and lowering future maintenance costs.
4. What are the water requirements for trees in the Okanagan?
In the Okanagan, water is a critical resource for trees, especially during their establishment phase and the dry summer months. Here’s a detailed breakdown of water requirements:
1. Newly Planted Trees
Frequency: Water deeply 2–3 times per week during the first growing season.
Amount: Use 10–15 gallons per inch of trunk diameter at each watering.
Depth: Ensure water penetrates at least 12–18 inches deep to reach the root zone.
Technique: Use slow-release methods like drip irrigation or soaker hoses to avoid runoff and maximize absorption.
2. Established Trees
Frequency: Water every 1–2 weeks during dry periods, depending on the species and soil type.
Amount: Provide deep watering to encourage roots to grow deeper into the soil, promoting drought tolerance.
3. Seasonal Considerations
Spring: Gradually increase watering as the tree emerges from dormancy.
Summer: Water more frequently due to higher temperatures and evaporation.
Fall: Reduce watering gradually but provide a deep soak before winter to help trees store moisture.
Winter: Water only during prolonged dry spells when the ground isn’t frozen.
4. Drought-Tolerant and Native Species
These trees, such as Ponderosa Pine and Junipers, require less frequent watering once established. Water deeply once a month during dry periods.
5. Soil Type Impact
Sandy Soils: Require more frequent watering as they drain quickly.
Clay Soils: Hold water longer but need slower, less frequent watering to prevent root rot.
6. Mulching to Retain Moisture
Apply a 2–4 inch layer of mulch around the base of the tree to the dripline to reduce evaporation and keep the root zone moist. This is the most important factor in conserving water and saving your trees from drought.
7. Signs of Under- or Over-Watering
Under-Watering: Wilting, dry, or yellowing leaves.
Over-Watering: Soggy soil, root rot, and leaves turning brown or falling prematurely.
Proper watering is essential for trees to thrive in the Okanagan's dry climate, and adapting practices based on tree species, soil type, and weather conditions ensures optimal health and growth.
5. How can I protect my trees from pine beetles?
Protecting your trees from pine beetles in the Okanagan requires proactive management and careful monitoring. By combining preventative measures, regular care, and prompt action, you can significantly reduce the risk of pine beetle infestations and protect your trees. Please reach out if you suspect a beetle infestation, and we will assess the situation and create an action plan.
6. What are the signs of drought stress in Okanagan trees?
Drought stress is a common issue for trees in the Okanagan due to its semi-arid climate. Recognizing the signs early can help mitigate long-term damage. Here are the key indicators of drought stress in trees:
1. Leaf Symptoms
Wilting: Leaves appear limp or droopy.
Curling: Leaves may curl inward to conserve moisture.
Browning or Scorching: Edges of leaves turn brown, starting at the tips and spreading inward.
Premature Leaf Drop: Trees may shed leaves early as a survival mechanism.
Yellowing: Leaves may turn yellow, especially on deciduous trees, signalling stress.
2. Branch and Canopy Changes
Thinning Canopy: The tree may lose leaves, creating a sparse or bare canopy.
Dead Branches: Branch dieback occurs, often starting at the top or outer edges of the tree.
3. Bark and Trunk Issues
Cracking Bark: Dry conditions can cause the bark to crack, exposing the tree to pests and diseases.
Sunscald: Bark may discolour or peel due to lack of protective foliage and increased exposure to sunlight.
4. Growth Reduction
Stunted Growth: The tree produces fewer or smaller leaves, shoots, or flowers.
Reduced Fruit Production: Fruit-bearing trees may yield less fruit, and it may be smaller or misshapen.
5. Root Symptoms
Surface Roots: Roots may become exposed as the soil dries and shrinks.
Poor Anchorage: The tree may become unstable due to weakened roots.
6. Other Indicators
Increased Pest Activity: Stressed trees are more susceptible to pests, such as bark beetles or aphids.
Late Season Color Change: Leaves may change color earlier than expected.
How to Respond to Drought Stress
Water Deeply: Apply water slowly and deeply to the root zone, reaching 12–18 inches deep.
Mulch: Add a 2–4 inch layer of mulch around the tree’s base to retain moisture and regulate soil temperature.
Reduce Competition: Remove competing plants, like turfgrass, near the tree’s base.
Prune Sparingly: Remove only dead or damaged branches to reduce stress.
Monitor Regularly: Check for ongoing signs of stress and adjust care as needed.
7. Are there specific tree species that provide good shade for properties in this area?
Several tree species are well-suited for providing shade in the Okanagan. These trees are heat-resistant, drought-tolerant, and capable of thriving in the region’s conditions while offering ample canopy coverage. As always, plant the right tree in the right place, and you won't have to worry about it.
Deciduous Shade Trees
Deciduous trees provide shade in summer while allowing sunlight through in winter, which is ideal for energy efficiency.
Bur Oak (Quercus macrocarpa) - Hardy with a large, spreading canopy.
English Oak (Quercus alba) - Hardy, large tree that prefers slightly acid soils.
Northern Pin Oak (Quercus ellipsoidalis) - Hardy, smaller oak species that is more tolerant to alkaline conditions but prefers a slightly acid soil.
Ginkgo (Ginkgo biloba)- Unique fan-shaped leaves and excellent heat tolerance.
Honey Locust (Gleditsia triacanthos) - Open, airy canopy and adaptable to various soil types.
Linden (Tilia cordata) - Dense foliage and fragrant flowers, ideal for large properties.
Native species are well-adapted to the local climate and require less maintenance:
1. Ponderosa Pine (Pinus ponderosa)- Tall with a high canopy, offering filtered shade.
2. Douglas Fir (Pseudotsuga menziesii) - Provides excellent shade and thrives in the region’s climate.
3. Western Larch (Larix occidentalis) - Deciduous Conifer, drought-tolerant.
Ornamental Shade Trees
Smaller trees with decorative appeal:
12. Japanese Tree Lilac (Syringa reticulata)- Compact with fragrant blooms and a rounded canopy.
13. Paperbark maple (Acer griseum) - Performs well in clay soils, beautiful red exfoliating bark.
14. Persian Ironwood (Perrotia persica) - Extreme tolerance to stress and very pest-free.
Planting Considerations
Placement: Plant shade trees on the south or west side of properties to block the most intense sun.
Space: Ensure adequate spacing to allow for mature canopy spread.
Water: Provide sufficient water during the establishment phase.
8. How do I choose the right tree for my urban yard in the Okanagan?
Choosing the right tree for your urban yard in the Okanagan requires careful consideration of factors that align with the region's semi-arid climate and your yard's specific conditions. Here's a step-by-step guide:
1. Consider Your Yard's Space and Size
Available Space: Measure the planting area to ensure the tree has enough soil and above-ground space to grow to its mature height and width. Remember, 80% of tree problems are in the ground.
Overhead and Underground Clearance: Check for utility lines, septic systems, or building foundations nearby.
2. Match the Tree to Your Yard's Conditions
Sunlight: Select a tree suited to the sunlight your yard receives (e.g., full sun or partial shade).
Soil Type: Test your soil’s drainage and pH. Sandy, loamy, or clay soils each require specific tree types. Perform a percolation test for drainage. Some soils can drain quickly, and some are prone to waterloggin,g leading to root rot.
Water Availability: Opt for drought-tolerant species to reduce water needs once established.
3. Choose Trees for Specific Functions
Shade: Consider trees like Honey Locust or Bur Oak to cool your home and yard.
Ornamental Value: Choose trees like Japanese Tree Lilac or Amur Maple for seasonal flowers or fall colours.
Windbreak: Ponderosa Pine or Juniper can serve as excellent wind barriers. Cedars (Thuja spp.) do not do well in the Okanagan and should not be planted unless you have ample moisture to provide. They are a riparian species and are not drought-tolerant, no matter what the nursery or internet tells you. Save yourself some money and heartache.
Wildlife Habitat: Opt for native trees like Trembling Aspen near creeks and lakes to attract birds and pollinators. Trembling aspen is another riparian species that requires ample moisture and is very fast-growing and extremely prone to pests and disease.
4. Opt for Low-Maintenance and Resilient Species
Select trees that are pest- and disease-resistant, as well as those that require minimal pruning or cleanup. Ginkgo biloba is an amazing species, but be sure to select a male specimen. Females produce a fruit that rots and smells of rotting flesh!
5. Consider Growth Rate and Longevity
Fast-Growing Trees: Ideal if you want quick shade or privacy, but beware! Fast-growing trees are more prone to failure and pests and disease, leading to more maintenance.
Long-Lived Trees: Provide value over decades (e.g., Bur Oak or Linden).
6. Think About Seasonal Aesthetics
Choose trees that offer beauty year-round, such as vibrant fall foliage, spring blossoms, or textured bark in winter.
7. Research Local Regulations
Check with your municipality about any restrictions on tree types, placement, or height in urban areas. Certain fruit tree species like apples, pears, peaches, and cherries have local bylaws that are important to consider. It's cheaper to buy fruit than to deal with the associated monitoring and treatments for these trees.
8. Use Native and Drought-Tolerant Species
Native species like Ponderosa Pine, Douglas Fir and Juniper thrive in the Okanagan climate and require less maintenance.
9. Plan for Maintenance
Assess how much effort you’re willing to invest in pruning, watering, and cleaning up fallen leaves or fruit. Remember, the leaves of trees are nature's fertilizer and homes for beneficial insects that are helping you deal with pests on your property. Removing them on a yearly basis will degrade your soil and destroy insects' homes, leading to more maintenance. I know you are thinking insects are gross, but they are extremely important for biodiversity a the survival of our species!
10. Consult Experts
Seek advice from local nurseries, knowledgeable, passionate arborists, horticulturalists or extension services for tree recommendations tailored to your specific needs.
Pay attention to your gut; some nurseries and arborists will lead you down a path of destruction, leading to more maintenance in order to make more money for you in the future. It's a great business plan, but we all lose in the end!
Give Green Tree a call, text or email; we will always choose to protect nature.
By evaluating these factors, you can choose a tree that enhances your yard’s aesthetic, provides environmental benefits, and thrives in the Okanagan’s unique urban landscape.
9. How can I identify and manage diseases affecting trees in this region?
The Home and Garden Pest Management Guide from the BC government is a great resource for homeowners looking to manage their trees. Click this link below.
https://www2.gov.bc.ca/gov/content/industry/agriculture-seafood/animals-and-crops/plant-health/insects-and-plant-diseases/home-garden/home-and-garden-guide
Please note: Misdiagnosis is Malpractice, which can lead to increased pesticide use and exposure, further degrading biodiversity and increasing pests and disease. Please request a consultation if you have any questions or concerns about your diagnosis.
10. What are the regulations regarding tree removal on private property in the Okanagan?
Regulations regarding tree removal on private property in the Okanagan vary by municipality. Here's an overview of the guidelines in key areas:
Kelowna
In Kelowna, the Tree Protection Bylaw No. 8041 governs tree removal:
In Kelowna, the Tree Protection Bylaw No. 8041 governs tree removal:
Protected Trees: Trees with a diameter greater than 150 mm (6 inches) measured 1 meter above ground level within designated tree protection areas, such as stream corridors and hillsides with slopes of 30% or greater, are protected.
Permit Requirements: A Tree Cutting Permit is required to remove protected trees. Applications must include details like the number, size, species, and location of trees to be removed and proposed replacement plantings.
KelownaReplacement Trees: Typically, two replacement trees are required for each tree removed, with specific size requirements for conifers and deciduous species.
Penalties: Unauthorized removal can result in fines up to $2,000 per tree, along with requirements to plant replacement trees.
West Kelowna
In West Kelowna, tree removal regulations focus on Development Permit Areas (DPAs):
In West Kelowna, tree removal regulations focus on Development Permit Areas (DPAs):
Development Permit Areas: If a tree is located within a DPA, such as environmentally sensitive areas or hazardous conditions zones, a permit is required for removal.
West KelownaApplication Process: Applicants must provide information on the number, size, species, and location of trees to be removed, as well as proposed replacement plantings.
Maintenance Responsibility: Property owners are responsible for maintaining trees on their property. Concerns about tree safety should be addressed by hiring a qualified arborist.
Penticton
In Penticton, the regulations concerning tree removal on private property are primarily governed by the City Tree Protection Bylaw No. 2001-26. This bylaw focuses on the management and protection of trees located on city property. For trees situated entirely on private property, the bylaw does not impose restrictions on removal. However, if a tree on private property falls onto city property, the property owner is responsible for its removal. Additionally, if a privately owned tree poses a hazard to public property or safety, the city may require the owner to address the issue.
It's important to note that while the City Tree Protection Bylaw does not regulate the removal of trees entirely on private property, other municipal bylaws, provincial regulations, or environmental considerations may apply, especially concerning protected species or heritage trees. Therefore, it's advisable to consult with the City of Penticton's Planning Department or a certified arborist to ensure compliance with all relevant regulations before proceeding with tree removal on your property.
For more detailed information, you can review the full text of the City Tree Protection Bylaw No. 2001-26 here: City of Penticton
Riparian Protected Zones
You would first need to contact the Local Government (LG) that would trigger a development permit. The Landowner would require certain approvals from the LG, who should be able to guide you with the next steps. However, because of its location near the lake, creeks or streams, a Qualified Environmental Professional (QEP) would need to determine the Streamside Protection and Enhancement Area (SPEA) and Riparian Assessment Area (RAA) to assess the tree's position relative to the SPEA and RAA. The QEP must prepare a report to determine whether the removal complies with the Riparian Areas Protection Regulation (RAPR).
Riparian Protected Zones
You would first need to contact the Local Government (LG) that would trigger a development permit. The Landowner would require certain approvals from the LG, who should be able to guide you with the next steps. However, because of its location near the lake, creeks or streams, a Qualified Environmental Professional (QEP) would need to determine the Streamside Protection and Enhancement Area (SPEA) and Riparian Assessment Area (RAA) to assess the tree's position relative to the SPEA and RAA. The QEP must prepare a report to determine whether the removal complies with the Riparian Areas Protection Regulation (RAPR).
General Considerations
Municipal Variations: Each municipality in the Okanagan may have distinct bylaws regarding tree removal. It's essential to consult local regulations before proceeding.
Environmental Sensitivity: Areas designated as environmentally sensitive often have stricter regulations to protect local ecosystems.
Professional Consultation: Engaging with local authorities or professional arborists can provide guidance tailored to your specific situation.
Adhering to local bylaws ensures compliance and contributes to the preservation of the Okanagan's natural environment.
11. How do I correctly prune trees to promote healthy growth?
Proper tree pruning promotes healthy growth, improves structure, and enhances the tree’s aesthetics. Here’s a step-by-step guide for effective pruning:
Understand the Basics of Pruning
Why Prune?
Remove dead, diseased, or damaged branches.
Improve tree structure and aesthetics.
Enhance sunlight penetration and air circulation.
When to Prune:
Deciduous Trees: Late winter or early spring, before new growth begins, is typically best, but pruning throughout the summer has not been shown to cause any excessive stress unless more than 30% of the leaf-bearing canopy has been removed. Certain tree species, such as maples, can "bleed" sap from their wounds, but this is not a cause for concern because trees can compartmentalize decay. In nature, trees do not have a choice when they experience branch failures, which is why they have evolved mechanisms to cope with the damaging effects of such injuries.
Evergreens: Early spring or mid-summer, depending on the species. This is due to the effects pruning has on the regenerating the lost foliage before
Flowering Trees:
Spring bloomers: Prune after flowering. If you prune before flowering, you won't have any flowers. (e.g. Lilac)
Summer bloomers: Prune in late winter or early spring.
Use Proper Tools
Hand Pruners: For small branches up to ¾ inch in diameter.
Loppers: For branches ¾ to 1½ inches in diameter.
Pruning Saw: For branches larger than 1½ inches.
Pole Pruner: For high branches.
Sharp and Clean Tools: Ensure tools are sharp to make clean cuts and disinfect them between trees to prevent the spreading of disease.
Follow Key Pruning Techniques
Start with Dead, Diseased, and Damaged Wood:
Remove branches that show signs of decay, insect damage, or broken limbs.
Cut Outside the Branch Collar:
Make cuts just outside the swollen area where the branch meets the trunk (the branch collar).
Avoid cutting flush with the trunk to prevent harm to the tree. Flush cuts are one of the worst things that can be done to a tree!
Use the 3-cut Method for Large Branches:
First Cut: Make a small cut on the underside of the branch, 6–12 inches away from the trunk, to prevent tearing.
Second Cut: Saw through the branch from the top, a few inches farther out than the first cut.
Final Cut: Remove the remaining stub just outside the branch collar.
Shape the Tree:
Maintain the tree’s natural shape while removing excess growth.
Do not reduce the tops, which can cause stress and lead to weak, poorly attached regrowth.
Avoid Common Pruning Mistakes
Over-Pruning: Excessive removal can stress the tree and reduce its vigour. Avoid removing more than 25% of the canopy in one season. Your tree will reward you with fewer pests and diseases, resulting in less maintenance.
Flush Cuts: Cutting too close to the trunk damages the tree’s ability to heal.
Stub Cuts: Leaving a branch stub can attract decay and pests, prolonging the decay process and potentially leading to decay columns and structural failure. Additionally, a stub can cause the branch to regrow multiple shoots that will eventually need to be removed. Some arborists may intentionally leave stubs to create a scenario where they are hired again in the future to prune the same branch, thereby increasing their income.
Topping: Never cut the main leader (top vertical branch), as it disrupts growth and structure. This is often done to trees because people fear tree height and potential failure. However, this practice can lead to multiple competing tops, each weakly attached, which increases the risk of failure. Remember, the right tree, the right place! If topping is the only option, removing and planting a better suitable species is best. This will save you time, frustration and money.
Special Considerations for Young Trees
Focus on developing a strong central leader and evenly spaced scaffold branches while the tree is young and growing vigorously.
Remove competing leaders or branches with narrow crotch angles. V-shaped unions are weak and U-shaped unions are great
After Pruning Care
Watering: Keep the tree hydrated, especially in dry conditions.
Mulching: Apply mulch around the base to retain moisture and protect roots.
Inspection: Monitor the tree for signs of stress or disease after pruning.
Following these steps ensures your tree remains healthy, structurally sound, and beautiful for years.
12. What are the fire-resistant tree species suitable for planting near homes?
Planting fire-resistant tree species near homes is an important strategy for reducing wildfire risk, especially in fire-prone areas like the Okanagan. Fire-resistant trees are less likely to ignite, produce fewer embers, and can act as a buffer to slow the spread of fire.
Characteristics of Fire-Resistant Trees
High moisture content in leaves.
Low resin or sap levels (which are highly flammable).
Dense, smooth bark and minimal leaf litter.
Deciduous Trees
Deciduous trees are generally more fire-resistant than evergreens due to their high water content and lack of resin.
Evergreens with Fire-Resistant Properties
Although most evergreens are more flammable, some species are better suited for fire-prone areas.
Ponderosa Pine (Pinus ponderosa)
Thick, fire-resistant bark; requires regular maintenance to remove lower dead branches and needle litter.
Western Larch (Larix occidentalis)
Deciduous conifer with low flammability when needles are shed in fall.
Planting and Maintenance Tips
Spacing: Maintain at least 10–30 feet between trees and structures.
Pruning: Remove dead branches to reduce fuel load.
Leaf Litter: Regularly clear away dry leaves, needles, and debris from around trees and structures. Keep in mind that leaves are nature's fertilizer, and removing them too often can lead to nutrient deficiencies in the soil and reduce biodiversity. Instead of discarding the leaves and needles, pile them in a corner of your yard, away from any structures. Before winter, spread them back over the root zones to allow for natural decomposition and nutrient cycling. Your trees will appreciate it!
Watering: Keep trees hydrated to maintain their natural fire resistance.
Defensible Space: Create a defensible space around your home by avoiding flammable plants near structures.
By selecting fire-resistant trees and maintaining your landscape, you can improve safety while enhancing your property’s aesthetics and resilience to wildfire risks.
13. How can I support local wildlife through tree planting?
Supporting local wildlife in the Okanagan through tree planting involves selecting species that provide food, shelter, and nesting opportunities while contributing to the region’s ecosystem. Here’s how to do it effectively:
1. Plant Native Tree Species
Native trees are best suited to the Okanagan’s semi-arid climate and provide resources local wildlife depend on. Consider these species:
Ponderosa Pine (Pinus ponderosa): Offers seeds for birds and small mammals and shelter for larger animals.
Trembling Aspen (Populus tremuloides): Attracts birds, beavers, and insects.
Douglas Fir (Pseudotsuga menziesii): Provides cones for squirrels and seeds for birds.
Black Cottonwood (Populus trichocarpa): Supports cavity-nesting birds like owls and woodpeckers.
2. Focus on Fruit- and Nut-Bearing Trees
These trees offer food for various wildlife species:
Serviceberry (Amelanchier alnifolia): Produces berries for birds and mammals.
Chokecherry (Prunus virginiana): Provides fruit for birds and pollinators.
Oak (Quercus spp.): Produces acorns that support a variety of wildlife.
3. Create Habitat Diversity
Incorporate a mix of tree species, sizes, and ages to support diverse wildlife needs:
Dense Canopies: Offer shade and protection for nesting birds.
Open Spaces: Allow sunlight for undergrowth, supporting smaller animals and pollinators.
Dead or Decaying Trees: Leave snags or logs for cavity-nesting species and insects.
4. Provide Shelter and Nesting Sites
Plant evergreens like Juniper (Juniperus spp.) or Ponderosa Pine for year-round cover.
Choose trees with strong branches and natural hollows for nesting birds.
Install nesting boxes or platforms for species like owls, bats, or swallows.
5. Support Pollinators
Plant flowering trees that attract bees, butterflies, and other pollinators:
Golden Currant (Ribes aureum): Vibrant blooms support pollinators in spring.
Hawthorn (Crataegus spp.): Flowers for pollinators and fruit for birds.
6. Maintain and Enhance Water Sources
Plant trees near water features like ponds or streams to create riparian habitats.
Species like Black Cottonwood and Willows thrive in moist areas and stabilize soil.
7. Reduce Pesticide Use
Avoid pesticides and herbicides, which can harm beneficial insects and other wildlife.
8. Create Connectivity
Plant trees along property edges or near other natural habitats to create wildlife corridors, allowing animals to move safely between habitats.
9. Plan for Seasonal Resources
Ensure food and shelter are available year-round:
Spring: Flowering trees for pollinators.
Summer: Leafy canopies for shade and protection.
Fall: Fruit- and nut-bearing trees for sustenance.
Winter: Evergreens for shelter.
10. Engage in Community Initiatives
Participate in local tree-planting events or consult with organizations like the Okanagan Similkameen Conservation Alliance to learn more about supporting wildlife.
By planting thoughtfully and maintaining a wildlife-friendly landscape, you can create a haven for local species while enhancing biodiversity in the Okanagan.
14. How do I deal with invasive tree species on my property?
Dealing with invasive tree species in your area requires a proactive approach to identification, removal, and prevention to protect native ecosystems. Here's how to manage invasive trees effectively:
1. Identify Invasive Tree Species
Research invasive species common in your region.
In the Okanagan, examples include:
Tree of Heaven (Ailanthus altissima): Rapid growth and allelopathic properties inhibit other plants.
Russian Olive (Elaeagnus angustifolia): Aggressive spread in riparian areas.
Siberian Elm (Ulmus pumila) - Aggressive spread, rapid growth, very prolific seeds with high success rates. Elm seed and elm leaf beetles are a concern for home invasions during the dormant season.
2. Assess the Extent of the Infestation
Determine the size and age of the invasive trees.
Identify their impact on native vegetation and wildlife.
Map out the affected areas for better planning.
3. Removal Methods
Mechanical Removal:
Hand-pull seedlings or saplings before they are established.
Use saws or machinery to cut down larger trees.
Ensure the complete removal of roots to prevent regrowth. This can be very costly due to root spread and the time it takes to eliminate them.
Chemical Control:
Apply herbicides to freshly cut stumps to inhibit regrowth.
Use targeted treatments to minimize harm to native plants.
Follow local regulations and safety guidelines for herbicide use.
4. Manage Debris Properly
Do not compost invasive tree materials, as seeds or roots may survive.
Burn or dispose of debris in accordance with local regulations.
5. Restore Native Vegetation
Replant with native or non-invasive species to fill the gaps left by removal and prevent re-invasion.
Examples for the Okanagan:
Ponderosa Pine (Pinus ponderosa).
Serviceberry (Amelanchier alnifolia).
Trembling Aspen (Populus tremuloides).
6. Monitor and Maintain
Regularly inspect the area for signs of regrowth or new invasions.
Remove any new seedlings promptly.
Encourage healthy growth of native vegetation to suppress invasives.
7. Engage the Community
Educate neighbours and local groups about invasive species and their impacts. Trees don't understand fence line boundaries. If your neighbours aren't controlling their invasive trees, it may be impossible to control yours.
Organize community removal events to address widespread infestations.
8. Work with Experts
Seek advice from local conservation authorities, arborists, or invasive species councils.
Use tools like the BC Invasive Species Council's resources for guidance on best practices.
Prevention Tips
Avoid planting known invasive species in your yard.
Clean equipment and shoes after working in infested areas to prevent seed spread.
Use certified weed-free soil, mulch, or compost in your garden.
By taking these steps, you can effectively control invasive tree species, protect native ecosystems, and promote biodiversity in your area.
15. What are the common challenges of growing fruit trees in the Okanagan?
Growing fruit trees in the Okanagan can be highly rewarding, but it also comes with several challenges due to the region's unique climate, soil, and environmental factors. Here are the most common challenges and how to address them:
1. Water Scarcity
Challenge: The Okanagan’s semi-arid climate means limited rainfall, making water management critical.
Solution:
Install drip irrigation systems to ensure consistent moisture for your fruit trees. Keep in mind that once the canopy of your fruit trees becomes mature and large, drip irrigation may not deliver sufficient water to the critical root zone. In such cases, it is advisable to install a low sprinkler system for better coverage.
Apply mulch around the base of trees to the dripline to retain soil moisture and reduce evaporation.
2. Late Spring Frosts
Challenge: Frost can damage blossoms, reducing fruit yield.
Solution:
Plant frost-tolerant varieties
Use frost blankets to cover your trees if the weather is going to drop dramatically.
3. Pests and Diseases
Challenge: Common issues include codling moths, cherry fruit flies, aphids, and fungal infections like powdery mildew.
Solution:
Monitor trees regularly for signs of pests and diseases.
Use integrated pest management (IPM) practices, including natural predators and organic sprays.
Prune to improve airflow and reduce disease susceptibility.
4. Poor Soil Quality
Challenge: Some areas in the Okanagan have sandy or rocky soils with low fertility.
Solution:
Amend soil with organic matter like compost to improve fertility and structure.
Test soil pH and nutrients; most fruit trees thrive in slightly acidic to neutral soil (pH 6.0–7.0).
5. Sunburn and Heat Stress
Challenge: Prolonged exposure to intense summer heat can cause sunburn on fruit and stress trees. Especially the trees that have been topped excessively to lower the canopy.
Solution:
Use shade cloth
Ensure proper irrigation to help trees withstand heat stress.
If sunburn is going to be an issue, white latex paint could be used but is not recommended due to the effects it has on the breathability of the bark.
6. Pollination Issues
Challenge: Insufficient pollination leads to poor fruit sets, especially for species requiring cross-pollination. This is an issue that is getting worse as biodiversity collapses. We need to protect the beneficial insects, their fate is directly connected to us. In the future, people may need to pollinate their own trees in order to bear fruit. If this isn't terrifying to you, imagine a world without food! How long can we survive?
Solution:
Plant-compatible pollinator varieties nearby.
Attract pollinators like bees by incorporating flowering plants around the orchard. Allocate a section of your property for nature by planting native pollinator plants and letting the area thrive naturally. Nature will appreciate your efforts and you'll increase biodiversity and reduce pests and disease over time. Laziness never felt so good!
7. Wildlife Damage
Challenge: Deer, birds, and rodents often target fruit trees for food and shelter.
Solution:
Install fencing to deter deer.
Use bird netting or reflective tape to protect the fruit.
Wrap tree bases with guards to prevent rodent damage in the winter.
9. Overproduction of Fruit
Challenge: Overloaded branches can break under the weight of excess fruit, reducing tree health.
Solution:
Thin fruit early in the season to ensure even ripening and reduce stress on branches. This may feel wrong, but your fruit will taste better and grow larger.
10. Climate Change Impacts
Challenge: Rising temperatures and unpredictable weather patterns can affect growth cycles.
Solution:
Adapt by planting more drought-tolerant or heat-resistant fruit tree varieties.
Stay informed about climate trends and adjust practices accordingly.
By understanding and addressing these challenges, fruit tree growers in the Okanagan can enjoy abundant harvests while maintaining healthy and productive orchards.
16. Where can I find professional arborists or tree care services?
You've already found us! If you decide to work with another company, please check their credentials and insurance. It's also important to have a conversation with your arborist to see if their passion for trees meets your expectations. Ask them if they practice tree topping. If they say yes, consider hiring a different company.
Tree topping can sometimes be justified to promote biodiversity, but such situations are rare. They typically occur in riparian areas or with larger trees that could house nesting owls and birds. Unfortunately, we are witnessing a concerning decline in large trees worldwide due to an unjustified fear of their potential to fail.
If you have any questions or concerns about your trees, please feel free to contact us. We would be happy to help alleviate any fears you may have regarding your trees.
Common Misconceptions about Trees
If I hang a hat on a lower branch when the tree is young, the hat will be much higher in the tree in 10 years.
Reality: Trees grow from the tips out, not from the ground up. The hat will be in the same spot, but the branch may have grown into it.
Trees set buds in the spring.
Reality: Trees develop buds at the end of summer when they have accumulated plenty of energy from the sun. Fall is an ideal time to spot these tree buds, as the leaves begin to drop. The buds remain dormant during winter, patiently awaiting the warm days of spring to grow and eventually transform into leaves and flowers.
Trees Grow Continuously Throughout Their Lives
Reality: Trees have a maximum size they can reach based on their species, genetics, and environmental conditions. Once they reach maturity, their growth slows significantly, particularly in height, though they may continue to increase in girth (trunk diameter).
Trees need to be painted when we create wounds on them, similar to how a bandage works.
Reality: Trees have developed a natural mechanism for sealing off wounds known as compartmentalization. This process allows them to isolate the damaged area and gradually grow new wood and bark over time. Using wound paints can have several adverse effects:
Trap moisture and pathogens: Wound paints create a moist environment, promoting decay and encouraging fungal growth.
Prevent natural sealing: These products can interfere with the tree's ability to form protective callus tissue.
Provide minimal pest deterrence: Although some wound paint products claim to repel pests, they are often ineffective for long-term protection.
Watering your trees at the main stem
Reality: Watering your established trees at the main stem causes the water to accumulate and may lead to root rot and/or pests and disease. There are very few absorbing roots located at the main stem.
Tree Roots Grow Deep into the Ground
Reality: Most tree roots grow in the top 12-18 inches of soil because that’s where oxygen, water, and nutrients are most abundant. Only a few tree species develop deep taproots.
Tree roots are a mirror of the canopy.
Reality: Most of the tree's root zone is within the dripline of the tree but can be imagined like a Wine glass.
Trees love soil and can be planted deep to increase drought resistance.
Reality: Planting trees too deeply can suffocate the roots and cause various problems. Always ensure that the root flare is above the soil grade.
Trees bought from the nursery are planted at the right depth.
Reality: Trees from the nursery are almost always planted too deep and should not be planted at the same depth. Always remove excess soil to the highest structural root before planting.
Pruning Trees Doesn't Harm Them
Reality: Improper pruning can harm trees, making them more susceptible to disease, pests, and structural weakness. Correct pruning techniques and timing are essential for tree health.
All Trees Are Strong and Resilient
Reality: Some trees are fragile and prone to damage from wind, pests, or disease. Additionally, urban trees face challenges such as compacted soil, pollution, and limited root space, which can weaken them.
You Can Plant a Tree and Forget About It
Reality: Young trees require care, including watering, mulching, and protection from pests and diseases, to establish themselves. Neglect during the first few years can lead to failure.
Planting Bigger Trees is Always Better (Instant Landscapes)
Reality: Larger trees can be harder to transplant successfully because of their extensive root systems. Smaller trees often establish and grow faster in the long run after planting. Instant landscapes don't work. Save yourself some money, plant a smaller tree, and watch it grow.
Trees Live Forever
Reality: Trees have a finite lifespan, varying by species and growing conditions. Some species may live for centuries, while others naturally live only a few decades.
Cutting Down a Tree Kills It Completely
Reality: Many trees can regenerate from their stumps or roots, particularly certain species like willow and elms, unless the stump and root system are entirely removed or treated.